About the area
With a surface area of 7,650 km2 and a population estimated to be 38,300 in 2000, Caithness and Sutherland has a population density of just 5 inhabitants/km2, making it one of the least densely populated areas of Europe. GeographyCaithness and Sutherland is a very diverse area in both landscape and wildlife terms. This immense variability reflects the complex underlying geology ranging from the generally flat landscapes of Caithness on Old Red Sandstones (flagstone) to the Lewisian gneiss 'cnoc And lochan' scenery of the west coast with it's Torridonian sandstone/quartzite mountains. Much of central Sutherland is composed of rocks of the Moine series (Moine schists), named after A'Mhoine near Tongue where these rocks were first described. Caithness has the most northerly point on mainland Britain at Dunnet Head and the most northerly settlement of John'o'Groats. HistoryThe most northerly counties in mainland Scotland, Caithness and Sutherland have a stormy history. The earliest known settlers at Skibo in Sutherland were Norse invaders under the command of Sigurd the Mighty and Thorstein the Red, who conquered the county of Sutherland and surrounding areas at the beginning of the tenth century. With its extensive views over the sea, the Dornoch Firth and the Ross-shire hills beyond and its own anchorage, Skibo provided the perfect natural setting for the headquarters of Norse defence in the area. Peace finally came to the region in 1186 when Skibo was granted to Gilbert de Moravia, the Bishop of Caithness. Gilbert constructed a residential palace at Schytherbolle building on the remains of the Norse stronghold and during Gilbert's lifetime peace reigned. His death in 1245 however brought an end to the fragile peace and the area was once again ravaged by war. The seat of the Bishops of Caithness remained there until 1545. In 1567 the Earl and Countess of Sutherland were poisoned at the instigation of the Earl of Caithness. Caithness then invaded the county of Sutherland, set fire to the town of Dornoch and carried off the 15 year old son and heir of the poisoned couple. The unhappy youth was then forcibly married to the 32 year old daughter of the Earl of Caithness to seal his hold on the county. Relations are happier now, but many differences remain. Caithness has a Viking heritage, with Norse place names like Wick and Thurso, its two largest towns, and is much less mountainous than its neighbour. Although Sutherland gets its name from the fact that it was the southern part of the Viking kingdom, its background is much more Gaelic. ClimateThe climate varies from the mild oceanic west with high rainfall to the drier, more continental, east coast. The range of wildlife and habitats found here is equally diverse with virtually all northern plant and animal communities represented from coastal to mountain zones. Many of the habitats and species found in Caithness and Sutherland are of national or international importance. LandscapeThe low intensity management of land for crofting, farming and sporting purposes has helped maintain the natural heritage interest and created the characteristic landscapes we see today. Much of the area's interior is covered by the 'Flow Country', wide expanses of blanket peat bog and small Lochs, although there are a number of prominent hills, including Ben Hope, Scotland's most northerly Munro. Unfortunately large areas of the Flow Country were scarred during the 1970's and 80's by insensitive and large-scale afforestation. More recently though, tree planting has been carried out far more sensitively. Natural HeritageThe Peatlands of Caithness and Sutherland represent one of Europe's largest areas of active blanket bog and are proposed as a World Heritage Site. Essentially unchanged for over 4,000 years this is one of Britain's most ancient landscapes and home to a wide range of breeding peat-land birds such as greenshank, golden plover, red-throated and black-throated divers and several species of birds of prey. There are also outstanding breeding seabird colonies of national and international importance such as those at North Caithness Cliffs Special Protection Area (SPA), East Caithness Cliffs SPA, Cape Wrath SPA and Handa Island SPA with the largest breeding colonies of guillemots and razorbills in Britain. Internationally important populations of waders and wildfowl over winter on the sheltered shores of East Sutherland and important numbers of Ospreys use these same areas for feeding during the breeding season. Nationally and internationally important habitats include those of the high hills found at unusually low altitudes in the extreme north, and the northernmost woodland fragments, with both pine and oak woods reaching their northern limits in the area. The limestone areas of north and west Sutherland are also of outstanding importance for a number of features. There are also a number of uncommon or rare plant species, e.g. The Lapland Reed - Caithness has the only site plant in the world - and Primula Scotica, the Scottish Primrose, an endemic species found only in Orkney, Caithness and Sutherland. Protected AreasThe area boasts a number of important sites which are protected by legislation:
Cultural HeritageCaithness and Sutherland contain a wealth of prehistoric and later settlement sites. Archaeological sites are particularly dense and well preserved in some localities, for instance, the Strath of Kildonan and Strathnaver. The well preserved prehistoric and later settlement sites in Caithness and Sutherland include:
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